Malta: it’s not just for dogs and falcons anymore

December 5, 2011 in Boomers, Places, Travel

Sally Franz

I didn’t know much about Malta, give or take a dog or a falcon. I recalled something about World War II, lots of damage, lots of lives lost. I wasn’t interested in seeing a war zone. But when I woke up it was a sunny day and it was my last Port of Call for the cruise and I decided to check out Malta. Best idea ever!

Malta’s port is a medieval walled fortress that is massive. From my ship I looked down and saw entry walls of a fortress in the shape of a star. Walls on either side create a narrow passage into the well-defended harbor. On my left was the walled city of Valletta up on a high cliff and to the right was the walled area of the ‘Three Cities” which is across the harbor looking very much like Venice with all its’ inland waterways and massive domed churches. This was where ships were made and housed for battle throughout history. Ship building is still an industry there today.

Malta is its own country, but it hasn’t always been independent. Because Malta is in between Italy and Africa, it seems everyone wanted to conquer it: Romans, Arabs,Normans, Sicilians, and Aragons. Then in 1530-1798 it was the glorious time of the Knights. The times were not peaceful, however. Great Ottoman sieges with the Barbary pirates were ceaseless. Then France and the British had their turns at ruling. At last in 1974, Malta became its own Republic and now there are 400,000 Maltese citizens.

Not to be missed is St. Johns Co-Cathedral founded by the Knights Hospitaller and used by the Knights Templar. Apparently money was no object. The outside appearance of the cathedral is plain and unassuming, as to not draw attention to it. However, once you enter the grand doorway it is a festival for the eyes. Marble, gold, silver and art work from the grand masters cover every inch of surface with exquisite detail.

There are eight chapels. One is dedicated to Saint Paul who was shipwrecked on Malta and survived both the high seas and a snake bite which he “threw off and did not die.” The floors throughout are ornate marble inlay grave markers for knights of yore entombed beneath your feet. Most grave plates include skeletons and macabre themes of death. The message was clear: too soon we die, make the most of your life with service.

Farther on the island is the “silent city” of Mdina. You enter over a draw bridge over a moat. This working village was the original capital of Malta. There are narrow alleys, shops and cobblestone streets. The front doors of the homes were large solid barriers. I wasn’t sure if it was to discourage or nosey tourist. What I did notice was that they each had a distinctive door knocker, hands, lions, Roman faces and dancers. Mdina was a place I would very much like to return to for perhaps a summer to paint and eat the fresh seafood caught just of the massive walls in the sea below. And yes, I did get a bit lost wandering the streets. But if I was lost, I was lost in one small walled place with only one way out. And Maltese and English are the co-official languages. That always helps.

Sally Franz

Sally Franz is a motivational speaker, corporate trainer and author. Her newest book, about contracting an auto-immune disease (Transverse Myelitis-TM), which threatened to leave her paralyzed is an Amazon Best Seller: “Scrambled Leggs…a snarky tale of hospital hooey”. She is an avid gardener, artist and world traveler. And now she is about to venture out on her 26th move since the age of 20. Next stop? Portland, Oregon.